Guests gather over morning tea at a teahouse in Xinghua. [Photo provided to etaizhou.gov.cn]
Xinghua morning tea is best known for fish soup noodles and dazhu gansi (braised shredded tofu). The tradition dates back more than 2,000 years in Xinghua, a water town in Jiangsu province.
Dazhu gansi (braised shredded tofu). [Photo/WeChat account: xinghuafabu]
It began with boatmen and fishermen working the canals of the Lixiahe region. With no way to cook on board, they carried tea leaves, tofu and other ready-to-eat foods and had a simple meal at the docks before starting work.
During the Tang Dynasty (618-907), tea drinking spread along the canals from nearby cities. Tea stalls began to appear, and having morning tea became a daily routine for ordinary people. These stalls also started serving side dishes and steamed snacks alongside tea.
By the time of the Ming and Qing dynasties (1368-1911), Xinghua had developed into a bustling town that traded salt and grain. Teahouses served a variety of food, including cold dishes, hot stir-fries, dim sum and fish soup noodles. Morning tea also evolved into a social occasion for entertaining guests and friends.
Xinghua morning tea is often compared to Yangzhou morning tea. While Yangzhou's style is refined and elegant, Xinghua's is hearty and practical, reflecting the lives of farmers and boatmen.
Today, old tea stalls have become teahouses and popular local spots. But the custom remains: people gather over morning tea to talk and start the day.